Introduction
Capoliveri is one of the most picturesque villages on Elba Island. Perched on a hill with panoramic views of the south‑eastern coast, its labyrinth of cobblestone alleys, stone arches and terraces exudes Tuscan charm . The village mixes art, culture and tradition, offering lively evenings of music and street markets. Nearby you will find some of Elba’s most beautiful beaches and the natural reserve of Monte Calamita, making Capoliveri an ideal base for exploring the island . This guide, written by the staff of Hotel Giardino, explains how to reach the area, which beaches to visit, outdoor activities, cultural events, food and wine and why Hotel Giardino at Lacona is a great base.
Getting there and getting around
- Arriving on Elba: The easiest way to reach the island is by ferry from Piombino to Portoferraio (crossing about 1 hour). Ferries run all year with extra departures in summer; you can embark your car and it is recommended if you want to explore freely . Fast hydrofoils (passengers only) connect Piombino to Portoferraio in about 40 minutes . From Portoferraio it is a 20–25 minute drive to Capoliveri or Lacona . Hotel Giardino offers discounted ferry tickets for guests .
- Moving around: Public transport on the island is limited, so renting a car or scooter is advisable. Capoliveri and Lacona are centrally located; from here you can reach Portoferraio, Porto Azzurro, Marina di Campo and other towns in 10–25 minutes . Bus routes exist but have few departures, so consider hiring a vehicle at the port .
- Parking: Larger beaches like Lacona, Lido, Morcone and Innamorata have organised parking (some free, some paid). Smaller coves (Barabarca, Laconella) have limited spaces, so arrive early and carry coins for meters .
Climate and when to visit
Spring (April–May) and early autumn (September–early October) offer mild temperatures and quiet beaches – perfect for hiking, biking and relaxation. June–August is ideal for beach life and festivals but is the busiest season; book accommodation and ferries early.
The most beautiful beaches in Capoliveri
Capoliveri boasts a wide variety of beaches: long sandy bays and hidden coves. Staying at Lacona gives you easy access to the south coast (Golfo di Lacona and Golfo Stella) and the eastern coast towards Porto Azzurro . Below are highlights of the main beaches :
| Beach | Highlights | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Lacona | 1.2 km arc of golden sand backed by dunes and pine forest. The shallow seabed is safe for children; services include umbrella rentals, bars and water sports. Blue Flag quality . | A five‑minute walk from Hotel Giardino via a path through the dunes; perfect for families and swimmers. |
| Innamorata | Romantic 280 m bay with calm clear water and sunset views. Half free beach, half serviced; bars/restaurants on site. Opposite are the Gemini islets, ideal for snorkeling . | Linked to a local legend commemorated on 14 July by the Festa dell’Innamorata – torchlit procession and rowing race . |
| Zuccale | Hidden cove (~180 m) with golden sand and crystal‑clear water sheltered by Capo Stella. Ideal for snorkeling along the rocky sides; few services (umbrella rentals, bar, pedal boats) . | Access via a dirt road and steps; intimate atmosphere loved by families and couples. |
| Morcone | Easily reached sandy/pebble beach (270 m) with turquoise water. Full services: beach clubs, diving centre, windsurf school, bars and restaurants . | Suitable for families and water‑sports enthusiasts; evening beach parties are sometimes organised . |
| Barabarca | Secluded cove with sandy/pebbly shore, posidonia and rock pools rich in marine life. Well protected from Tramontana and Maestrale winds . | No permanent facilities; access via a path and steps; excellent for snorkeling and tranquillity. |
| Lido di Capoliveri | Long, popular beach (~460 m) with fine sand and gently sloping seabed. Amenities include beach clubs, bars, canoe/pedal‑boat hire and large parking lots . | Busy with families and young people; sports and music events, views of Montecristo . |
| Naregno | 500 m beach on the eastern side near Porto Azzurro. Sheltered by Forte Focardo; has beach clubs, sailing school, boat rentals and a taxi‑boat to Porto Azzurro in summer . | Good mix of relaxation and activities; snorkeling near the rocks below Forte Focardo. |
| Laconella | Small wild bay (200 m) adjacent to Lacona with white sand and turquoise water. No facilities; access via a scenic 10–15 min trail or a small paid car park . | Go early or late to avoid crowds; ideal for snorkeling and nature lovers. |
Outdoor activities: sea, trekking and sports
Capoliveri offers many outdoor activities beyond sunbathing :
- Snorkeling and diving: The crystal‑clear waters around Zuccale, Barabarca, Innamorata and the Gemini islets are rich in fish, octopus and starfish. Local diving centres (e.g., at Morcone and Pareti) organise courses and guided dives for all levels, including the famous Elviscot wreck at Pomonte .
- Swimming, SUP and kayak: Calm mornings in the Gulfs of Lacona and Stella are perfect for open‑water swimming. SUP and kayak rentals are available at the larger beaches; paddling around the Gemini islets at sunset is magical . Boat tours run to secluded coves and to Pianosa Island .
- Windsurf and sailing: Lacona is a favourite spot for windsurfers thanks to reliable thermal winds; a windsurf and sailing school operates here. Lido di Capoliveri and Naregno also offer sailing and windsurf rentals and occasional amateur competitions .
- Trekking and panoramic walks: Numerous trails circle the hills. The Monte Calamita trail climbs from the village to the 413 m summit through ancient iron mines, offering spectacular views . An easy path leads to the Madonna delle Grazie Sanctuary with views of the bay . From Lacona a one‑hour hike up Capo Stella rewards with 360° vistas . Spring is ideal for flowers and butterfly spotting.
- Mountain biking: Capoliveri Bike Park is a network of trails on Monte Calamita used for the international Capoliveri Legend Cup. Cyclists can enjoy challenging climbs, exhilarating descents and panoramic routes all year. The hotel provides bike storage and can advise on routes .
- Horse riding and other outdoor sports: A riding centre near Mola organises excursions along the trails and beaches; there are tennis courts in Lido and adventure parks for children in some campsites . Capoliveri also hosts the Elbaman Ironman event each September, and Hotel Giardino offers special deals for participants .
History, culture and traditional events
Capoliveri’s history spans Etruscan‑Roman mines, Pisan fortresses and Spanish rule . The village celebrates its heritage with lively festivals:
- Festa dell’Uva (early October): four historic districts compete to decorate streets and re‑enact vineyard scenes. Visitors taste local wines (especially Aleatico) and enjoy music and parades .
- Festa dell’Innamorata (14 July): re‑enactment of the legend of Lorenzo and Maria with a torch‑lit procession to Innamorata beach and a rowing race between districts .
- Capoliveri Legend Cup (mid‑May): an international mountain‑bike race on Monte Calamita with festivities in the village .
- Local food festivals and concerts: Throughout the year there are sagre dedicated to Aleatico wine, honey, mushrooms and fish, plus carnival parades and summer concerts . A summary table of events is provided in the original article .
Food and wine
Capoliveri’s cuisine reflects Elba’s maritime and rural roots . Typical dishes include gnocchetti with crab, calamarata with squid, cacciucco (fish stew) and cinghiale in umido (wild boar stew). Local products to sample :
- Aleatico Passito: a sweet red dessert wine paired with the Schiaccia briaca (raisin and nut cake) .
- Elba Bianco and Rosso wines: aromatic whites and robust reds; vineyards around Capoliveri produce Vermentino and Ansonica .
- Olive oil: terraced olive groves yield a delicate extra‑virgin oil .
- Goat and sheep cheeses: often flavoured with Mediterranean herbs .
- Fresh fish: sea bream, bass and other local catch grilled or cooked “alla isolana” with tomatoes, olives and capers .
Recommended restaurants include La Taverna dei Poeti and Trattoria da Mario in the old town for creative fish dishes and home‑style cooking, and Da Michele, a grill and pizzeria beloved for its hearty portions and family atmosphere . On the coast, Morcone and Innamorata have seaside eateries – try Conte Domingo for its seafood paella . Near Hotel Giardino in Lacona there are casual pizzerias and beach clubs that serve dinner on the sand . Hotel Giardino itself serves its guests simple home‑cooked meals with fresh local ingredients, praised for breakfast cakes, homemade jams and dinners of fresh pasta, grilled meats and fish .
Itineraries and excursions around Capoliveri
From Capoliveri you can embark on day trips across the island:
- Porto Azzurro (10 km, 15 min drive): charming fishing port with Spanish Fort San Giacomo, lakeside Terranera with green waters in a former pyrite mine, and lively evening markets . Enjoy fresh seafood along the waterfront.
- Forte Focardo and Naregno (8 km): 17th‑century Spanish fortress (external view only) and the adjacent beach; views of Porto Azzurro and Montecristo .
- Monte Calamita mines & Costa dei Gabbiani (6 km to museum): explore a historic open‑pit iron mine at the Museum of the Old Workshop and join off‑road tours to disused galleries and seacliffs like Ginevro and Punta Calamita . The area includes secluded coves accessible by boat and wine tastings at Tenuta delle Ripalte .
- Pomonte and the Elviscot wreck (30 km, 50 min): on the southwestern coast, swim or snorkel over the Elviscot cargo ship lying at 12 m near the shore; the drive offers panoramic coastal views .
- Portoferraio (15 km, 20–25 min): Elba’s capital with Medici fortifications, Napoleon’s residences Villa dei Mulini and Villa San Martino, museums and shopping streets .
Thanks to its central location, Capoliveri/Lacona allows you to explore different corners of Elba each day and return to the quiet of Hotel Giardino in the evening .
Why choose Hotel Giardino as your base
Hotel Giardino lies in a pine forest in the Gulf of Lacona, just 100 m from the beach. Guests appreciate its strategic position – 10–15 minutes by car to the main towns and beaches – and the warm, family‑run atmosphere . Rooms are simple but comfortable, with private bathroom, air conditioning, flat‑screen TV, safe and free Wi‑Fi; many have balconies or private gardens . Daily cleaning, modern bathrooms and a private numbered parking spot add convenience .
The hotel’s restaurant serves generous buffet breakfasts with homemade cakes, jams and local honey, and dinners featuring fresh pasta, fish and seasonal vegetables . Barbecue evenings are held in the garden when the weather allows – a romantic touch for couples and a convivial moment for families . The property’s 4 500 m² park has hammocks, picnic tables, a playground and games (ping‑pong, table football), making it ideal for families . Bike storage and advice on cycling routes are available for mountain‑bike enthusiasts .
Families appreciate the playground, child‑friendly menus and proximity to the safe sands of Lacona . Couples enjoy the intimate setting, sunset walks on the beach and occasional surprises arranged by the staff (e.g., sparkling wine for anniversaries) . With its blend of simplicity, cleanliness, good food and a peaceful yet central location, Hotel Giardino offers an authentic Elba experience .